How to choose a helmet
A helmet protects you from falling rock and gear and from impacts when you fall. The best helmet is the one you will wear all the time, so comfort matters as much as protection.
Hard shell, foam or hybrid
Hard shell. A plastic shell with foam or a strap suspension inside. It shrugs off scratches and being stuffed in a pack, and suits beginners, clubs and rental gyms.
Foam. Helmets made mostly of foam, lighter and better ventilated. They need more careful handling because foam dents more easily.
Hybrid. A hard shell where impacts are most common and foam elsewhere, a compromise between weight and durability.
Measuring and sizing
- Wrap a soft tape around your head, about a finger above your eyebrows and over your ears.
- Choose the size whose range includes your measurement.
- With the chinstrap loose, the helmet should not wobble when you shake your head.
If you climb in winter, check that a thin hat fits underneath.
What else to check
- Headlamp clips if you climb early or in caves.
- Ventilation for hot days.
- A chinstrap buckle that closes easily with one hand.
Certification
Climbing and mountaineering helmets are tested to EN 12492, and many also to UIAA 106. Work-at-height helmets have their own standards, see the Professional section.
When to replace it
Replace a helmet after a hard impact, even if you cannot see damage, and when it reaches the lifespan stated in its instructions. Do not add stickers or paint unless the manufacturer allows it. More in the PPE inspection guide.