How to choose a climbing harness
You wear your harness on every route, and it decides how comfortable you are while hanging, belaying or lowering. Here is how to choose without paying for things you do not need.
What kind of climbing
Gym and sport climbing. A light harness with a slim profile, two to four gear loops and usually fixed elastic leg loops. Less material means less weight and more freedom of movement.
Trad and multi-pitch. More gear loops, a wider and softer waistbelt for long belays, and adjustable leg loops so you can wear more layers.
Alpine. A light harness that packs small, with leg loops that open fully so you can put it on with crampons or skis on.
Adjustable or fixed leg loops
Fixed elastic leg loops are lighter and quicker to put on, but fit a narrower range of bodies. Adjustable leg loops let you climb in thin leggings in summer and thick trousers in winter. If this is your first harness and you also climb outdoors, adjustable loops are the safer choice.
How it should fit
- The waistbelt sits above your hip bones and is tight enough that it cannot slide down over them.
- You should fit a flat hand between the leg loops and your thigh.
- When you hang in the harness you should sit upright, without pressure in one spot.
- When tightened, the webbing tail at the buckle should leave the margin the instructions specify.
If you are between two sizes, go by the waist. Send us your measurements and the model if you are unsure.
Certification
Climbing harnesses are tested to the European standard EN 12277, and many also to UIAA 105. Work-at-height harnesses are tested to other standards and are not the same as sport harnesses. For those, see the Professional section.
When to replace it
A harness is textile and ages even when unused. The manufacturer’s instructions state its lifespan. Replace it straight away if it has cut or melted fibres, damaged stitching or deformed buckles, or if you are unsure of its history. More in the PPE inspection guide.