How to choose climbing shoes
Shoes are the only gear that touches the rock directly. The right pair gives you confidence on small footholds, the wrong pair hurts and slows you down.
Shape
Flat (neutral). Comfortable for longer wear, for the gym, beginners and long routes. Your toes sit almost flat.
Moderate downturn. A versatile shape for sport climbing and bouldering, with more precision on small holds.
Aggressive. Strongly downturned and asymmetric, for steep routes and hard bouldering. Worn tighter and not for all day.
Closure
- Velcro: quick to take off between attempts, great for the gym and bouldering.
- Laces: the finest adjustment, good for long routes.
- Slipper: lots of feel and little weight, but less support.
How tight
For a first pair choose comfortable shoes: your toes can touch the front but must not be curled to the point of pain. Over time, as you start standing on smaller holds, you can move to tighter and more downturned models.
Sizes differ between brands and even between models of the same brand. Leather stretches more than synthetic uppers, so a leather model can be bought a little tighter.
Foot shape
The last shape matters as much as the size. If you have a wide foot or a high arch, some models will be uncomfortable in any size. Tell us your foot shape and we will suggest models.
Care
Air them after climbing and do not leave them in the sun or a hot car. When the rubber wears out, many models can be resoled instead of buying a new pair.